Yes, This City Has Black People. Here’s Why You Should Visit.
By Leroy Adams
San Antonio African American Community Archive and Museum (SAAACAM)
San Antonio, a city celebrated for its vibrant blend of Mexican and Texan cultures, is home to another rich cultural narrative that is less frequently highlighted: the enduring legacy of Black culture. For many travelers, the Alamo and River Walk are synonymous with San Antonio's identity. However, beneath the surface lies a deeply rooted history of African American contributions that have significantly shaped the city’s cultural landscape. For our team’s group trip, aimed at inspiring and sparking creativity, I took our group to explore San Antonio's hidden histories, helping them discover the profound impact of Black culture through its historical sites, artistic expressions, and culinary heritage.
Two months ago, Carmen, our Fashion and Travel writer, with the directness of Jasmine Crockett’s verbal takedowns, requested a group trip for our team. “We need to see each other and connect in person,” were her exact words. “With what money, Carmen?! You tell me!” was what I wanted to say, but I’m no fool. Besides, she was right. We’ve been building this magazine together for over a year, and, due to increased travel, our monthly meetings had evolved into email updates.
But which city and why?
A few days after the call with Carmen, I spoke with Martinique Lewis, founder of the ABC Greenbook App and one of the leading voices on Black travel data. When I brought up the idea of co-pitching a travel project to Visit San Antonio, Martinique’s response cemented my decision to make San Antonio our first Culture Travels team meetup. “There are Black people there?!” she exclaimed.
Girl, I’m here! And I understood her point.
ABC Travel Greenbook App
As a transplant of six years, I’ve been amazed by the enduring legacy of Black culture in San Antonio. From the art scene to the cultural institutions and landmarks, to the resilience of the community—it is the perfect place to foster team connections and spark creativity.
By the end of the trip, I was proven right. My team is still raving about the history of Black culture in San Antonio. It’s not a question of whether it’s right for a group trip. The real question is, how do we learn about the history and experience the culture when we visit? In short, where do we go?
We’ve got you covered. Read about four of the places our team visited and the impact they had on us.
Uncovering Hidden Stories: SAAACAM
San Antonio is celebrated for its Hispanic heritage, but the impact of Black culture in this city is just as significant, though often overlooked. Our visit to the San Antonio African American Community Archive and Museum (SAAACAM) was a powerful reminder of the deep roots and contributions of Black figures in the city’s history, despite being third in population size.
As we stepped into SAAACAM, we were drawn to the timeline that greets visitors, beginning in 1526 when the first Africans arrived in Texas. Each timestamp offers a window into our past, introducing the stories that make up “the cultural heritage of African Americans in San Antonio.” The museum challenges the misconception that there’s no significant Black presence in San Antonio, instead showcasing how Black culture is both historical and evolving.
One of the most memorable parts of the tour was learning about Estevanico, the first African to arrive in Texas in 1529. His story, along with those of other prominent Black figures like Myra Lillian Davis Hemmings, who became a pillar of the San Antonio community, highlights the rich history that is often overshadowed by the city’s more famous landmarks. Walking through the museum, the novelty of this history and the stories quickly eroded any walls of shyness, replacing them with an explosion of questions exchanged between our team—“Slavery was part of the Alamo? Did you know that about Estevanico? Which story do you think would most interest our readers?” The history on display sparked conversations, memories, and ideas, leaving us all inspired by the entrepreneurship, community activism, Black resilience, and creativity that has made San Antonio what it is today.
Art and Ambition: The Eye of the Beholder Art Gallery
After SAAACAM, we made our way to the St. Paul Square Historic District, home to the only Black-owned art gallery in the city—In the Eye of The Beholder Art Gallery. This space is more than just a gallery; it’s a hub for Black artistic expression and creativity.
Founded by Marie M. Williams in 2021, the gallery was born out of a need to create opportunities for Black artists in San Antonio. Marie’s journey began with the Art of Four initiative, a collaboration of four Black artists seeking exposure and opportunities. Today, the gallery showcases the work of over 40 artists, from local talents to international creators from Ghana and Nigeria.
Marie, with the warmth of your favorite auntie’s hug, made us feel at home. Angela Davis, with a bright red shirt, well-positioned glasses, and a neatly shaped afro, captures your wondering eyes as soon as you step into the gallery. Newspaper clippings dated from 1966, with headlines marking significant moments—like Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination—in African American history were transformed into art pieces with images of grieving Black women painted across the front page. As we walked around the gallery with the artist, Marie shared words of wisdom and encouragement with our team.
With the protective tone of a mother who knows the world can be cruel to unapologetic Black creativity and the experience of being young, gifted, and Black, she reminded us that the road to greatness is often filled with challenges, but it’s the work we do that ensures our stories are told and remembered. It was inspiring to see our writers talking with the local artists, sharing ideas and personal memories triggered by the pride displayed on the wall. If you want to leave a place hopeful about Black creative expression living on after your generation, a visit to this gallery will satisfy your concerns.
Served Heritage through Food and Music: Freight Chicken and The Carver
Freight Chicken
After exploring the museum and art gallery, my team let me know it was time to eat. No exploration of culture is complete without experiencing its culinary delights, and in San Antonio, the Black restaurant scene is as rich in history as it is in flavor. Our group’s culinary journey led us to The Pearl, a historic district known for its diverse dining options, and Freight Kitchen, a must-visit for anyone looking to savor heritage on a plate.
Freight Kitchen, founded by local chef Nicola Blaque, serves golden-fried chicken that crunches in your mouth, leaving an avalanche of crumbs tumbling down your shirt—don’t wear white to this restaurant. The flavors of a well-seasoned leg burst into your mouth with each bite of their consistently tender and juicy chicken. Freight Kitchen also serves a bit of history on each plate. The restaurant honors the legacy of Black women known as Waiter Carriers, who, post-Emancipation, sold fried chicken to travelers, creating a unique entrepreneurial path that lasted over a century. Freight Kitchen’s golden, crunchy fried chicken, prepared with a dry batter similar to the original recipes, is served with biscuits, just as it was by the Waiter Carriers in the 1800s.
As if they needed any more encouragement—because they’re all great at what they do—I wonder what feelings of determination were experienced during our visit to Freight Kitchen. A Black woman-owned local favorite restaurant serving some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had, along with a side of Black history, makes you think, “Imagine what I could achieve?”
Fighting that itis, we drove to the center of the East Side—the historically Black community—to visit The Carver Cultural Center, a historic landmark that has served as a gathering place for cultural exchange and performance arts for over 90 years. The main stage of The Carver has hosted some of the greatest musicians in our history: From the 1940s through the Civil Rights Era, prominent African-American entertainers such as Ella Fitzgerald, Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and Louis Armstrong performed at The Carver. You can also appreciate their embrace of today’s jazz, neo-soul, and dance artists like Lakecia Benjamin, Samara Joy, and performances like Step Afrika!
Cassandra Parker-Nowicki, the Executive Director of The Carver, with hugs as soft as clouds, is often the first person you meet during your visit. You can tell the history of the center flows through her because she recounts it with the ease of singing your favorite song—currently, J. Cole’s “Trae The Truth in Ibiza,” in case you were wondering.
The Carver, with its legacy of celebrating and preserving Black creative expression, was the perfect place for a team of creatives who, while passionate about the mission, hold no illusions about the weight we have chosen to carry by doing our best to preserve the history of Black travel and mobility. The 90-year-standing walls of The Carver, with the sounds of our musical ancestors bouncing off them, showed us what it could feel like to stand inside a legacy. So, we move forward together to create our own.
We’re Everywhere
San Antonio’s Black culture is woven with history, art, and culinary traditions that any visitor would love to add to their collection of travel memories. From the historical narratives at SAAACAM to the vibrant artistic expressions at In the Eye of The Beholder Art Gallery, and the flavorful and musical heritage at Freight Kitchen and The Carver Cultural Center, our group trip was a powerful reminder of the profound impact of Black culture in shaping any city’s identity. Imagine the look of confusion on your friends’ faces when you tell them you should check out the largest MLK March in the world in San Antonio. Yes, it’s here. And so are we.
